Why start small? A big brown cardigan
My first post this year was about a simple beanie I knitted this winter to dip my toes back into knitting after a long time away. Naturally, once I'd made a simple beanie out of yarn from my stash in just a few evenings, I decided that I needed something bigger and more ambitious. Clearly, a sweater was the next logical step...
The kids are wearing a lot of big, oversized sweaters these days and many of mine are showing their age, so I decided to try to make one. I found this free pattern for a simple raglan sleeved, top down, cardigan made out of inexpensive Lion Brand yarn and decided to give it a go. My sweet, supportive, husband was excited that I was starting a new project and detoured our drive to Yosemite three times for me to stop into every JoAnn along the way to find enough skeins from the same die lot to make this sweater. So, I was committed.
Now I have been knitting since I was about 10 years old, and savvy enough to actually gauge my stitches before starting a project since I was 21 and never once have I used the recommended needle size to get the gauge. I generally have to go down about 3-4 needle sizes to get there, and thats just something I've come to understand about myself. Even after working on my tensioning, trying to knit from the tips of the needles-- all of it-- I just always end up with larger, looser, stitches than I intend. So, I started by first swatch two needle sizes down, just out of habit, and was shocked to find my swatch too small. Eventually, I made it all the way up to the recommended size 11 needle and found the correct gauge.
This was my first indication that perhaps this pattern was not going to be a great one. Clearly, whoever made it is just as terrible a knitter as I am. I told myself not to hold this against her-- maybe she would be able to help me through my first project back. But, as the project wore on, I started to find myself frustrated with this pattern at every turn. The instructions would get ahead of themselves and having them up on my computer would make it overhead because of all of the pop ups and videos (but alas, that's just how the internet is now). More than once I had to rip out a couple of rows because I'd followed an instruction that was explained in more detail later on in the pattern or instructions were just generally in an illogical and misleading order. But, it was good practice, and encouraged me to try out a few things I hadn't done in a long time. For instance, while the pattern suggests that you can knit your sleeves in the round on a 36" needle, it fails to mention that this has to be done using the magic loop method. Did I figure it out? Sure, but a heads up would have been nice. So, at the risk of getting sued (please don't sue me) I've re-written the pattern so that it's in an orderly sequence that will save you at least a couple torn out rows (and a few choice words).
Materials:- US Size 11, 8.0 mm 36” circular knitting needles (US size 11 double pointed needles optional for sleeves)--- you will probably use larger needles if you dont usually have to go down a couple of sizes when gauging.
- 5 (6, 7, 9) Lion Brand Yarn Hue & Me chunky #5 yarn in Terra 125 g & 137 yds/skein
- Pattern uses approximately 570 g (703 g, 849 g, 1008g)
- Stitch Markers
- Tapestry Needle
- Measuring Tape
Gauge:
See https://www.mamainastitch.com/simple-raglan-cardigan-knitting-pattern/ for finished garment measurements and schematic.
Cast on
With your circular needles, cast on 28 (30, 30, 32). Sweater will be worked in stockinette stitch except for ribbing sections.
Set up and shoulder shaping
Row 1: With WS facing P1, pm, P4, pm, Purl 18 (20, 20, 22), pm, P4, pm, P1.
Next, you will work the Increase Rows as follows:
Increase Row: *Work to st before next marker, yo to inc 1 st, work next st, sl m, yo to inc 1 st; repeat from * 3 more times – 8 sts increased (increases are on RS knit rows).
Following the Increase Row directions, increase 8 sts every 2nd row the following number of times 10 (11, 12, 13). Then, increase 8 sts every 4th row 5 times.
Next, add a stitch to the neckline/collar by using a knitted method, casting on 1 st at each front neck/collar edge, every right side row 1 (1,1,0) times.
After all increases have been made, there will be a total of 150 (160, 168, 176) stitches.
Each sleeve will have 34 (36, 38, 40) stitches. Each cardigan front section will have 17 (18, 19, 19) stitches.
Divide Body and Sleeves Section
Work across the following number of stitches, with the RS facing, removing markers as you come to them for the left front 17 (18,19,19). Place the following stitches on spare yarn to hold them for the left sleeve 34 (36, 38, 40).
Cast on 6 sts with the knitted method. You may place a marker in the center of the 6 stitches just cast on as this will mark the left side of the cardigan.
Next, work across the following number of stitches for the back 48 (52, 54, 58). Place the following number of stitches on yarn to hold the right sleeve 34 (36, 38, 40).
Cast on 6 stitches with a knitted method. Again, you may place a marker in the center of the 6 cast on stitches to mark the right side of the cardigan.
Next, work across the following number of stitches for the right front 17 (18, 19, 19).
Each Front will have 20 (21, 22, 22) stitches. The Back will have: 54 (58, 60, 64) stitches.
Continue working stockinette stitch, until piece is approximately 12”(14”, 16”, 18”) from underarm/dividing row, or until desired length.
Next, work a 1×1 rib pattern for 2” inches, or until sweater is your desired length. Cast off and weave in ends.
Sleeves
Work sleeves in the round, continuing to work in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds).
Place the held 34 (36, 38, 40) stitches on circular needles or dpn’s as desired, using the magic loop method on circular needles. Once you’ve joined yarn, pick up and knit the 6 sts (all sizes) across the CO stiches at the bottom/base of the arm opening. Place a marker in the center of those 6 stitches to mark the center bottom of sleeves, and also to mark your rounds.
Round 1: K2tog 2 times at the beginning and end of round.
Decrease Repeats – Decrease by working a k2tog before and after stitch marker, which will decrease 2 stitches on each decrease round. Repeat this decreasing every 4th round for a total of 2 (2, 3, 3) times.
Next, continue working sleeve in stockinette stitch, no longer making decreases until desired length. Keep in mind it will be finished with a 1.5” cuff.
Ensure sleeve has an even stitch count once at the cuff. If not, make a decrease in order to get an even stitch count.
Collar/Neckline Ribbing Section
To add width to the front of the cardigan, you’ll now pick up stitches and knit a ribbed collar neckline along the front sides. To do this, with your circular needles, evenly pick up stitches, skipping every 5th stitch.
Work a 1×1 rib stitch pattern until the collar is about 2” (2.5”, 3”, 3.5”) or your desired width.
Pockets (make 2; not shown in photos)
Cast on 16 sts.
Row 1: Knit across the row.
Row 2: Purl across the row.
Continue working in stockinette stitch until pocket measures approx. 4”
Next, work the eyelet row as follows: *K1, yo, k2tog, repeat from * across the row to the last stitch, knit the last st.
Work 1.5” inches of 1 x 1 rib stitch
Cast off and weave in ends. Block pockets to shape and size.
With a length of yarn and a tapestry needle, use a simple whip stitch to sew the pocket to the cardigan, placing it in the center of the front side, and about 1” inch above the ribbing.
When all was said and done, the sweater was... well... exactly what it looked like in the photos. I had a vision of how I wanted it to look and hang and feel that was perhaps a little out of touch with the reality of the pattern. In looking at the photos again with a critical eye, having seen how it turned out, I get it. I made a bad choice. But, here we are. I decided not to add the pockets because I felt like they were just going to add bulk to an already unflattering fit. I also did a proper wet blocking to even out my stitches and improve drape, which went a long way.
However, when I went to put the sweater on to wear it for the first time, I learned that after blocking, the armpits were at my elbows. Determined to wear it anyway, I put it on and went to work. By the time I got through a very long day at the office, I swear it was twice the size it had been when I originally put it on.
I ran it through a gentle dry cycle with some damp clothes to see if I could get it to shrink back up just a bit, and had some success, but still probably wont be wearing it often.
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